Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Lunenburg

Followed the shore further SW towards Lunenburg, passing through Blue Rocks and Mahone Bay.
Peggy's Cove was about scenery (and ice cream). Lunenburg was about history - the British establishing another settlement after Halifax and how the farming people recruited to settle here learned to fish and build boats in order to survive.
In Lunenburg, toured the Fishery Museum, in an old fish processing plant, begun and funded by the townspeople. We learned about the cod fishing industry, first with salt or fresh fishing schooners, then wooden trawlers and finally, steel hull trawlers.
The schooners practiced line fishing, from dories launched from the schooner. As many as 12 per ship, each tending a mile or two of lines, with many separate hooks. They traveled back and forth along the lines, removing the catch and rebaiting the hooks.
The catch was processed, salted and stored on the schooner. One schooner, out for a month, could bring back over 200 thousand pounds of fish.
The schooners also completed in annual races. The all time fastest was the Bluenose, built and based in Lunenburg.
Trawlers replaced the schooners, dragging huge nets that caught much more than cod.
The museum docents were local people, from multi-generation fishing families and wonderful story tellers. A trawler, the Bluenose II (an exact replica of the original) and a smaller schooner were docked at wharf to explore.
Later, we explored more of the area, driving to LeHave and taking a ferry to East LeHave where we stopped at a local favorite bakery for tea and rolls. Then back to Lunenburg for a quick dinner before the ghost tour.
The guide was excellent, telling great tales of murder, deserted children or lovers, an Anglican church that burned in a Halloween prank (leading to surprising discoveries in the  crypt) and pointing out unusual grave markers in the cemetery.
The old school, next to the cemetery, illuminated at night, is home to scary basement washrooms - one stall of which was boarded up for 15 years (something about a hand grabbing yours when you flushed).
We also learned about the Lunenburg Bump, peculiar to houses here, as well as local superstitions and even coffin windows.
The Bump served as a 'widow's watch' where a seaman's wife could see the harbor and the neighbors from inside the house. Some houses had identical bumps and door features on the back of the house so should Satan come in the front, he would be confused and go straight through and out the back.
Other superstitions included no women on board ships, no whistling (sounded like storm wind), never say pig (squeal sounds like storm wind in rigging), don't turn anything over (don't want to suggest capsizing).
A long but good day.

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